Roberto Cavalli: “the beauty comes from the inside and it is a reflection of the individuality of man!”
Roberto Cavalli was born in 1940 in Florence, Italy. His education is in the Academy of fine arts in Florence. His grandfather is the famous Florence artist Giuseppe Rossi. In 1965 Roberto makes his first appearance in the fashion design with printed t-shirts. Later he creates his own factory. He continues with the art of printed clothes, but this time he works with leather (in the 70th). He is acknowledged as a pioneer in this area. He puts the beginning of his own career like a designer in 1982. In the second part of the 90th he launches the line "Just Cavalli", who is devoted to the younger generations, as well as another three brands, respectively “Class”, “Freedom” and “Angels”. He works for some time for the famous French fashion house “Hermes”. He opens a boutique for sale of jeans clothing with his brand in New York (1999). In 2002 he presents his first own aromatic liquid “Roberto Cavalli Parfum”. In the next year he creates the perfume Roberto Cavalli (M). Also in 2004 he launches the perfumes Just Cavalli Her (W), Just Cavalli Him (M) and Roberto Cavalli Oro (W).
In 2002 he is announced for a designer of the year from Fashion Group International (USA). He is the winner of the prize “Bambi” for achievements in the sphere of sport, fashion, music and cinema (2006).
Still few people can give strict explanation for the triumphal success of Roberto Cavalli. His works are fancy for young and old people, from young girls to mature people, from emotional pop artists to influential businessmen. It is no doubt that even the eye of no specialist in the sphere of the design can value the sexuality, the sensuality and the vitality in the jackets and the jeans, the blouses and the dresses, the boots and the sport shoes, marked with the brand “Roberto Cavalli”. With what kind of qualities this talented man from Florence succeed to attract the attention of the world famous medias upon himself? Why his name starts to stay frequently by the names of Armani, Prada, Versace, Ferre, when it should be indicated the achievements of the Italian fashion of today? What stays in the base of his fashion philosophy and aesthetics? Because he is inspired so much from the animal world and the wild nature? Is it possible to explain his scandalous behavior? Is it real or it is speaking just of a myth and newspaper hubbub? What is the reason Cavalli to set on the highest pedestal his family and together with that to warn do not mix love and sex?...
CHILDHOOD: TRAUMAS AND BRAINWAVE
It is difficult to find a source about the life of Roberto Cavalli, in which his strong spiritual relationship with his grandfather Giuseppe Rossi to be missed. Rossi is famous Florence artist, impressionist from 19th century, pronounced representative of the movement macchiaiolo. Maybe the life of the designer could pass in a different way, if the loud trauma that was caused to him in his early childhood didn’t exist. Roberto is quite young, when Nazis kill his father and this reflect heavily on his mind and his mentality. As the designer says his memories from that time border with the shock of the rumination and the result is present – the child retires in himself and he starts to talk after he is ten years old. But the brainwave comes from the useful contacts with his grandfather – artist, and with his mother – a dress-maker. He starts to help her in the tailoring activity from his early childhood and already like a teenager he decides to devote him self to the fashion and to the fashion design. He draws inspiringly and he is approved to study at the Academy of fine arts in the heart of the Italian paintings and culture – Florence. Like a student he is original, innovative and searching. The ways of drawing on the table-lands and especially the printing excites him from his early childhood and he is only twenty one years old, when together with his friend, they start to experiment with the making of printed materials on the most ordinary table for ping-pong. Asked years later what influenced him mostly for his formation of designer, he answers without doubt: ”The atmosphere and the artistic field of city like Florence, where I grow up, are exercised influence on my mind. On the other side, it is my family and my routine as a whole that influenced to me”. That is to say, the genetic and hereditary predestination (the paintings, from one side, and fashion – from other), the family encirclement and the society like intimate atmosphere and society, form one of the most bright design talents of our epoch.
FASHION PHILOSOPHY AND AESTHETICS
The conception understanding of the philosophy and aesthetics of Cavalli passes inevitably through his rationalization of the phenomenon “woman” and “femininity”. In this sense his works are original and impact mix from vital eroticism and refined (but sometimes and very sincere) sexy, combination of street patchwork and staggering refinement of high fashion. The artist says many times, that it doesn’t exist strict qualified ideal for woman, that for him the woman – icon is that woman that has expressive character, underlined individuality and she doesn’t afraid to feel free and to be free. His opinion about the beauty is anthropological and psychological. Cavalli said that “the beauty comes from inside and it is a reflection of the individuality of man”. In one other interview he characterizes the beauty like a wonderful visiting-card that helps at the first meeting, but it is quite not enough for the next.
The sources of inspiration of this famous author of clothes are hiding in the same nature, in the animal world, in the flowers and in the sky. Even in the sweet house of Cavalli in the center of Florence people are selling chocolates with motives, borrowed from the forms and patterns of zebras, tigers, parrots and serpents. However, just the serpent is the favorite animal of the designer, because it is changing and unfolding like the fashion; it is unbelievably flexible and arouse interest in the artist. Its skin is unbelievable and stimulates him to examine her like real zoologist – tester. “To me, says Cavalli, she always was a talisman, that I reproduce again and again in my textile design, and gradually she changed into more than icon symbol to my fashion house”. But the nature – the flora and the fauna, are quite not the only sources of inspiration in his art. Strong impulse and push in to the creation of his new collections are the people – they meet accidentally in the street, engaged in sports in the park or having a good time in the night club. To the question what inspires him mostly, Roberto Cavalli answers like a real poet: ”The eyes of my interlocutor and the nature”. In his spring collection for 2002 for example, he combines the animal patterns with the bright flowers, using at the same time multitude slashes, that give additional sexy to his models.
We can confide in him, when he explains his philosophy about the fashion with the impulsive and subconscious way that helps him to create his new clothes. In those cases, he doesn’t thing about the marketing success, not about that, that is well sold at the market of clothes. The essential that interests him, is how to satisfy the wishes of women to dress them selves practically, lightly, elegantly and sensually. The key words, that the designer uses, to define his creative motivation, are “natural” and “comfort”.
The aesthetics and the philosophy of the fashion designer are fascinating and they win new and new connoisseur and admirers, because Cavalli succeed to break the laws in the traditional fashion, staking on the style patchwork (the combination of parts of leather with parts of jeans material), imposing first or one of the first the use of denim in the official cloth and saturating with exotic and sensuality his works. In this respect, his words are significant about his autumn-winter collection 2006-2007, influenced by the East: ”For this collection I used light colors with new brilliant reflections, that I combined with the palette, characteristic for England from the beginning of last century to create contrast. I create a textile design with exotic flowers and birds. All the time I imagined the trousers and the dresses of the oriental harems with their decorations from beads. The coats are comfortable and in the same time very splendid with these leather decorations, something like a reference to the luxury from 1910 – 1920 in England. I like very much these “tripped-up” skirts, which forces the west woman to walk like a geisha. The Orient is the inspiration that provokes my ideas for this collection. I wanted that she will be related to the fashion, the art and the charm of Asia”.
Probably just the spontaneity in the way of creation of new collections and the no loading with strict principles and rules give to the art of Cavalli so much freedom and ease. He confesses that for him the fashion is a way to realize a normal interpreting of the art and for the achieving of this object it is not necessary to think about money, goods and sale. However, it is a fact that the designer heaves a deep sign, when the family council decides that he has to concentrate on the creative part, and his wife – with the finances and the business.
CAVALLI AND THE STARS IN THE SHOW BUSINESS
Brigitte Bardot is one of the first world famous cinema stars, who start to dress her self with the clothes from the nobody known young designer. Roberto Cavalli still remembers the furore that the beauty provoked, when in Saint Tropez she buys clothes of Cavalli – fresh, comfortable, different, and she starts to wear them with pleasure. The relations between Cavalli and the stars of show business are very heterogeneous. Some more, that Roberto Cavalli itself is perceived like super star, like world celebrity. When Roberto Cavalli celebrates in London the creation of a brand vodka of its own (it is sold in a bottle, that imitates ice with wrapped around it serpent from glass). A world famous music, cinema and fashion celebrities was at the reception. Among the muses of the Italian designer are Victoria Beckham, Jade Jagger, Holly Berry and El Macferson. In the beginning of December 2006 in Stuttgart just Victoria Beckham presented Cavalli on the bestowing on the prize “Bambi” for fashion. “Bambi” is established in 1948 and this prize is given for high achievements in the world of sport, fashion, music and cinema. „Roberto Cavalli succeeded to make even the most beautiful women in the world more attractive. His fashion is a bobtail to the women forms and it is created like for impressive appearance on the red carpet” – shared then the people from the jury.
It is difficult to enumerate all pop performers or cinema stars that are dressed with the brand “Cavalli”. Certainly, among them are Jennifer Lopez and Bono from U2, Lenny Kravitz and Mary J Blige, as also Ornela Muti and Nancy Brilli. Elton John is also among the admirers of the talent Cavalli. Many heroes from the popular TV movie “The sex and the city” prefer the clothes of the Florentine master of the impact style. The reborn band “Spice girls” turned to the designer with a request if he could design their clothes for their world tour from December 2007 to January 2008. The price of the dresses of the pop icons that Cavalli has created is two million liras sterling’s.
Everybody knows that the choice of scene clothing of the rock singers and the pop bands is very significant in general for the rating of one or another designer and fashion house. Roberto Cavalli is among the most requested, because his style is breaking up, non conservative and provocative. The sexy detachment of his works makes them more attractive for the representatives of the show business. Cavalli itself don’t hide his passion to musicians and singers, theatrical and cinema stars and often invites them to loud parties in his emblematical Florence villa. This friendship undoubtedly helps him to obtain inspiration, to live in a full value and to get to know better the contemporary art world in the one of his most attractive fields – the pop music and the cinema.
SCANDALS
Is it scandalous Roberto Cavalli? Why so often exist articles for him not only in the serious press but also in the yellow press? To an unwritten law the big designers are big brawlers. But brawlers not in a sense of nagging and tempered people, but in a sense of brave, hardy, not stopping in front of nothing creative natures, which leaded by their spontaneity can rebel the social opinion, to break a law, even to receive a judgment. In 2006 a dark cloud threatens above the head of Cavalli, because it is bring a charge to him against concealing of taxes and for illegal using of large amount of money for repair of his private domain in Toscana. It is goes to the court, which passes a sentence of fourteen months of prison. The designer didn’t doubt to fight for defense of his rights and he categorically appeals the imposing of this punishment.
Another almost constant source of scandals are the protests of the representatives of the organization for defending of right of the animals “PETA”, that breaks the revues of Roberto Cavalli, appeared undressed at the fashion stages despite the bodyguards and floating transparents with inscriptions:”It’s better to go naked, than dressed in leather!”. Such protests the defenders of the nature and the admirers of ethic attitude to the animals organize in front of the glossy boutiques of the designer. Around him self often is noisy, rumours are speeded, that he goes to bankrupt or that he sells everything, that he possess and he is retiring. In 2007 many speculations occurred about the eventual sale of his fashion house. In connection with that Cavalli gave special interview to WWD. Then the designer said, that he’d want to stay an artist in future, but that in the reality he also things about the financial future of the firm and that he is seeking a steady business partner. According to other sources, Roberto Cavalli showed for a potential partner the big grouping “Compagnie Financière Richemont”.
Sometimes his statements are also scandalous, for example that he lives for one day or about his extreme passion for the cigarettes, that he made an oath that he never give up smoking. His close friends said that he smokes almost night and day. The personal fascination and the male charm however save the artist from the attacks of the medias. Undoubtedly he is their favorite and because of his strong sense of humor. Asked with what he never separates, Cavalli answers self ironically:”With my nose. I have never wanted to separate with him”.
FAMILY AND PRIVATE LIFE
Artistic spirit, workaholics, freedom and responsibility – these are some of the values, dominating in the family of Cavalli. In his private plan the life of the designer turned upside down after he is invited for member of the jury of the competition “Miss Universe” in 1977. The candidates for the crown all were very beautiful, sexy and impact, but one of them captivated the heart of the designer and this is “Miss Austria” – Eva Duringer. But not everything happened at once, the process, as Cavalli says, is slow and gradual. Somehow or other Eva became his biggest muse and his unchanging companion in life and work. From his marriage with her Roberto Cavalli have tree children - Roberto (the younger), Daniele and Raquel. Altogether the designer is father of five kids; two of them are from his first marriage, and namely Christiana and Tomazo. Whatever superlatives to be written about Eva they will be right, because she “keeps” all the organization and manager activity, related to the fashion business with the brand “Cavalli”.
From the opinions and the answers of designers, given to journalists in many interviews, man can judge, that he is adaptive and flexible type, realist and altogether romantic. In his childhood hi had afraid from the dark and today – from the exaggerated light. For him love is something very serious, that can’t be mixed with sex. Now for fun, now for truth he defines his credo like working, earning and spending of the earned. Roberto confesses, that he likes to make presents, but he doesn’t like to receive and with that he embarrasses quite a lot his close and his friends. For its most extravagant purchase he confesses, that it is the helicopter that he obtained. He indicates Gabriel Garcia Markes like his favorite writer, and his preferable hero from the fairy-tales is Pinocchio with his long nose.
The personal style of clothing of those, who dress the million of people in the world, was always interesting and provoked animated discussions. How is dressed Roberto Cavalli it self? In every moment he has at his disposal fifty pairs of jeans and as much again black coats and black t-shirts – something like uniform, combining the sport with the elegant, the nonofficial and the official clothing. And something else – Cavalli always dresses with clothes of his own production:”I have the habit to dress my self to a very ordinary way – white or black shirt, a pair of jeans, black jacket and sport shoes or moccasins, depending on the case. Usually I produce these clothes myself, made to order, in my company. I don’t dress the clothes of the other designers. It doesn’t mean that I don’t like them, on the contrary! It’s just that my ateliers can make everything that I want”.
* * *
Robero Cavalli is among most interesting and influential Italian designers today. Thanks to his artistic, sociability and rich imagination he really succeeded to seduce the contemporary woman and to give her a present of generous portions sensuality and eroticism, charm and sexy, splendor and picturesqueness. Unshakable in his desire to be a dreamer and realist, he is part of the Italian visual culture of today and an example for vitality, spiritual wealth and temper from Florence.
Notes:
Гринкруг, Ольга. Роберто Кавалли. “Vogue” ( Россия) , No. 8 Август 2004, стр.223;
Roberto Cavalli – interview, magazine ”Fashion”, issue 101, November 2006; Roberto Cavalli – the king of the jungle. Rubric “Focus designer”, magazine ”Rouge”, October 2006, p. 76 – 80;
www.actualno.com; fashion.club.bg/ ;
Fashion now. i-D selects the world’s 150 most important designers. Edited
by Terry Jones & Avril Mair. – Köln: Taschen, 2005;
Roberto Cavalli . In: Fashion Designers. History of Fashion & Costume.
Available from Internet: www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/cavalli.html ; Website: www.robertocavalli.com
Photos:
1. Roberto Cavalli
Photo: © Vogue (Россия), No. 8 Аugust 2004, p.223
2. The world famous ballet-dancer Irina Dvorovenko in official toilet of Roberto Cavalli, 2003
Photo: © Vogue (USA), August 2003, p.120.
3. Model of Roberto Cavalli, spring-summer 2005
Photo: © Vogue (USA), February 2005, p.85.
4. Official toilet of Roberto Cavalli, autumn-winter 2004-2005 (dress of chiffon with plates and lurex), a bag from serpent leather from “Cloe”, golden ring with corals, diamonds and chalcedony from “Bezants”
Photo: © Hiroshi Kutomi / Vogue (Россия), №12, декабрь 2004, р.414.
5.Model of Roberto Cavalli autumn-winter 2005-2006 (vest from mink, silk shirt and open shoes), wooden necklace from Mauricio Pecoraro and bracelets from leather and wood from Botega Veneta.
Photo: © Vogue (Россия), No. 2, Февраль 2005, р.239.
6. – 15. Models of Roberto Cavalli autumn-winter 2006-2007
Photo: © Roberto Cavalli
16. Models of Roberto Cavalli autumn-winter 2006-2007
Photo: © Vogue (USA), August 2006, p.68.
17. – 19. Models of Roberto Cavalli autumn-winter 2007-2008
Photo: © Marcio Madeira/VOGUE.COM
20. – 23. Models of Roberto Cavalli spring-summer 2008
Photo: © Marcio Madeira/VOGUE.COM
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