THE ROAD OF THE SILK = THE ROAD OF THE HISTORY

Императрица Кси Линг-ШиOnce upon a time in distant China a beautiful empress called Ksi Ling Shi. She was a wife of the Yellow Emperor and in his honor she created a fairy material. She invented small creatures that possessed the unique ability to create threads and ... in this way was born the silk. Even you don’t believe in fairy tales one thing is sure: during three thousand years the silk was a privilege only for the richest in China. The secret of the production of this material was kept jealously to be preserved the monopole of Asia of its production. This continued to 200 year B.C., when the secter technology leaves the boundaries of China and reaches Korea. In 300 year A.C. the way of producing of silk is mastered in India. Namely in Asia the Romans invent the wonderful material, but they don’t know nothing about its origin.

In 552 year A.C. emperor Justinian sends two monks at a mission in Asia. They return in Byzantium with pupae – this is one of the earliest examples for industrial espionage.
In 7 century the Arabs conquers the Persians and their skills of production of silk. Through their attacks in Africa, Sicily and Spain is spread the technology of making of this material. In 10 century Andalusia is the biggest European producer of silk. The voyages of Marco Polo to China lead to development of the trade between the Est and the West and to increased usage of silk. In Italy in 12 century it starts to talk about silk industry.

Пашкули на копринената бубаПашкули на копринената буба

In the period 1450 – 1466 Lyon transforms in store for foreign silk, but the powerful import contributes for reflux of capitals and in 1466 Luis XVI declares his intention to “present the art and the mastership in production of gold and silk in our city Lyon”.

Рисунка, която представя древната технология за производство на коприна

Later in 1536 Francois I transform Lyon in city-monopolist in the production of the fine material.

Съществуват места, където традициите в производството на коприна са запазениThe next important event in the development of the silk industry is the cancellation of the decree of Nantes in 1685. Many of the French Huguenots that are an object of religious persecutions leave the country. Most of them are specialists in the weaving of silk and trough their migration they contribute to the development of the industry in Germany, Great Britain, Italy and Suisse.
In 18 century the silk continues to prosper in Europe, Japan and before all in China. The European Missioners in China even report, that \“even the most ordinary soldier is dressed in silk\”.

19 century characterizes with two main phenomenon: the increased mechanization and the increased production from one side, as a decline of the production of silk in Europe from other. With the opening of the Suez channel the import of crude silk from Japan became more profitable.

In the period between The Second World War and the 70s years of XX century Japan is the biggest producer of silk in the world. After this period however thanks to notable efforts and planning, China retrieves its historical right to be the biggest producer and exporter of silk. In 1985 the world production is at the rate of 56 000 tons, as 50% from them are produced from China.

Модерните технологии в производството на копринаРазлични видове коприна

Photos:

Копринена рокля на “Живанши” 1. Empress Ksi Ling Shi.
2. -3. Cocoons of the silkworm.
4. Drawing that presents the ancient technology for producing of silk.
5. There exist places where the traditions in the producing of silk are kept.
6. The fashion technologies in the producing of silk.
7. Different kind of silk.
8. Silk dress of “Givenchy”.

Photo:

www.fabricdepot.com, i.pbase.com, www.econ.iastate.edu, , www.floatingstone.biz, www.silk.org.uk, www.fabricdepot.com , bp3.blogger.com


Read: 3411 times                                                  © Fashion Lifestyle Magazine, issue 12, July 2008

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