SALVATORE FERRAGAMO: the shoemaker of the stars
Salvatore Ferragamo was born in June 1898, in Bonito, Italy, and died on August 7, 1960, in Fiumetto, Italy. In 1909, when he was still a child, he became an apprentice with local cobbler Luigi Festa in Bonito. Later he opened his own shoes store and a small repair shop. In 1914 he moved to the USA, where his brothers had already settled. He settled with them in California and started making made-to-measure shoes for the American Film Company in Santa Barbara. In order to get a better understanding of the human body and limb movement, he studied anatomy at the University of Southern California. In 1923 he moved to Hollywood, where he lived and worked successfully for the cinema until 1927. He quickly earned a reputation for being an original and gifted shoemaker with the Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer and the Warner Brothers film studios. He returned to Italy in 1927 and opened a large shoemaking factory with staff of 60. His business expanded, but after a few years he was forced to file bankruptcy as a result of the Great Depression. In the late 1930s, Ferragamo relaunched his business. His precise designs made him a world famous shoe designer and shoemaker. He took pride in the 20,000 pairs of shoes he had crafted by the time he turned 60, many of them for world famous movie stars. He created and introduced the platform shoes, the sandals as we know them today, the high heels with metal pins and the cork wedge. Statistic shows that in the late 1950s he could already boast with 350 patented shoe innovations. He was awarded the Neiman Marcus Award in 1947 (presented only to clothes designers until then). Today Salvatore Ferragamo is a world famous brand, which controls 100 per cent of its business. Apart from the namesake brand, the Ferragamo family owns the famous Emanuel Ungaro fashion house. One of the sons of the famous shoemaker, Leonardo Ferragamo, is CEO of the brand.
CHILD PRODIGY
Certain events in Salvatore Ferragamo’s childhood are just too important for us to miss out. He was only eleven when he made his first pair of shoes (according to some sources he was nine). He had just dropped out of school. His going only as far as third grade did not bother him as much as his sister taking her first communion without white shoes. Wanting to surprise her, in one night he managed to craft shoes for her, trimmed with white cardboard. Salvatore Ferragamo spent his childhood in the small village of Bonito, not far from Naples. His parents struggled to support their fourteen children, the youngest of whom was Salvatore. However, they opposed to Salvatore leaving school and becoming a cobbler. They thought that their child might have better future taking up some other craft, as cobblers did not earn much. During his apprenticeship with Luigi Festa, a famous cobbler in Bonito at the time, Salvatore learned the basics of shoemaking and shoe repair. In just two years he became confident enough to open his own shop and store. There he offered cheap and comfortable made-to-measure shoes to women, which made them much sought after. He oversaw a staff of five boys, the oldest being eighteen. But soon the young shoemaker entrepreneur started to feel that space and customers were not enough and decided to take the road of emigration.
JOURNEY TO AMERICA
Probably among the reasons, which made Ferragamo set off for America, was that some of his brothers and sisters had already settled there. Some did sewing, others - ironing. Very soon, through family contacts, Salvatore started work in a factory in Boston, which made production line shoes. Ferragamo soon became disappointed with the end result - uncomfortable, heavy-heeled shoes. He left work and moved back to Santa Barbara, where he talked his brothers and sisters into pooling their money so that he could open a shoe repair shop and store. In a very short time they were flooded with orders for boots and shoes from the film studios, at first for the cinema and then for the actors themselves.
What made the Italian craftsman a magnet for the movie stars were his original and precise work, the individual approach to every customer, the variety of materials and the achieved fusion between the foot and the shoe, which is a matter of sense, artistic intuition and perfect design skills.
FLORENCE FOREVER
In Hollywood Ferragamo earned a name as an indispensable shoe designer to the stars, both for their movie parts and their private life. It was by no mere accident that he was called “shoemaker to the stars”. What made him then remember his native Italy and spurred him to return? Actually the designer had never stopped thinking about his native country and his crafty countrymen, whom he missed so much in America. Ferragamo’s shoemaking technology required individual operations to be done by hand, not by machines, and Ferragamo needed fine craftsmen for the job. But the finest were in Italy. He is known to have tried to move part of his operation to his native contry. This is one of the main reasons which made him look back to Italy. Another reason was the start of the Great Depression in the USA, a time of hardship, when luxury goods interested only a few and due to the financial collapse people were thinking of their survival and forgot all about fashion and haute couture. Thirdly, homesickness also played a crucial role in his return to Italy.
After a careful analysis of the labour market and human resources, Salvatore Ferragamo decided to settle in Florence. There, in 1927, he opened his workshop and hired 60 craftsmen, whom he personally picked after he was assured of their craft skills. Eleven years later, when he had earned enough money, reputation and professional experience, he took a loan and bought the Spini Feroni castle and the Palazzo Michelangelo in Florence. Very soon, Ferragamo became national treasure. The famous and the wealthy from all over the world started pouring to Spini Feroni, where today the Ferragamo fashion house is seated. Experts say that Ferragamo won the title of best shoemaker of all time thanks to his attitude to the female (respectively male) foot. Shoes have a special significance in the evolution of female fashion. They are at once a functional, aesthetic and fashionable accent in the overall female look. The invention of nylon stockings, shorter skirts and dresses and the total dynamics of women finding social fulfillment required adequate footwear. It was time for the clumsy and unattractive shoes to be replaced by beautiful, comfortable and far more sophisticated boots, sandals and pumps. Ferragamo overcame the inconvenience, stiffness and even ugliness of shoes of the past, giving freedom, creativity and lightness to his wonderful designs.
INVENTIONS OF THE CENTURY
Ferragamo constantly sought invention – first - because of his desire to improve shoe design, adapting it to human anatomy and to the ever changing fashion and second - because of the economic and political circumstances. It all challenged him to be even more ingenious and resourceful. The economic sanctions imposed on Italy because of the fascist regime and Mussolini’s aggressive politics posed a real challenge. Besides metal insoles and steel pins implanted in heels, he authored many other innovations. In 1938, he introduced the wedge. Out of desire to experiment, or just because of economic restrictions, he used lace and raw silk, taffeta and satin, raffia, braids and synthetic materials including nylon. In 1947 he used transparent nylon fibres to make his famous invisible sandals. Shell-shaped shoes, bow-shaped shoes and the multicoloured clogs were a small part of his numerous patents. He patented shoes and bags made of crocodile skin. Ferragamo was popular not only among the rich and the famous, but also among his colleagues, who watched closely for his next inventions so they could use them in their designs.
RECOGNITION BY CELEBRITIES
Hollywood has helped many designers to receive fame and recognition. Today many fashion designers seek out film stars who will wear their designs for free to endorse them. In Salvatore Ferragamo’s time it was all different. Even back in Santa Barbara the young shoemaker impressed wannabes and famous film stars alike. At the beginning they came to him mostly for repairs, but soon realized that God had sent them a genuine wizard, who could offer them unique shoes. Oscar-winning actress Mary Pickford (1928) is said to be his first star client. The first pair of shoes Ferragamo made for her is legendary. They were made of brown kid leather and had ears at the front.
There is a unique photo of Salvatore Ferragamo among wooden lasts for his most famous customers. Every last is inscribed and one could read the names of Ava Gardner, Greta Garbo, Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn, Anna Magnani, the Duchess of Windsor, Lauren Bacall, Silvana Mangano, Rita Hayworth and many others. Among his devoted fans were actresses Pola Negri, Joan Crawford, Marilyn Monroe, Marlene Dietrich, Grace Kelly (who was later to become Princess of Monaco) and Princess Diana.
While he was alive, Ferragamo became very popular thanks to the fame of the film stars who were his customers. Many actors also sought his services. It is enough to mention Douglas Fairbanks and Rudolph Valentino, for whom he made comfortable moccasins. Among his customers was fascist dictator Benito Mussolini, who kept boasting with the soft comfortable boots, made by Salvatore Ferragamo, which salved his cold and calloused feet.
FAMILY AND BUSINESS
Born to a big family, Salvatore himself kept the family tradition. Mature 42 year-old Ferragamo married Wanda Miletti, who was much younger than him. She bore him six children – Fiamma, Giovanna, Ferruccio, Fulvia, Leonardo and Massimo. In his relatively short life (he died at 62), which was filled with work and inspiration, Salvatore Ferragamo kept to important professional and ethic principles – ethics, conscientiousness, consistency and integrity. He stood by the pureness of the brand, by loyalty and by individual approach to customers. After his death, his widow Wanda Ferragamo who took over the company and later his son Leonardo Ferragamo kept and developed these principles. Almost all members of the Ferragamo family work in the family business today. For instance, Giovanna Gentile Ferragamo, one of Salvatore’s daughters, is Vice-President of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion. She has visited Bulgaria for the first Italian festival here.
Here are some hallmarks for the Salvatore Ferragamo fashion house in the new millennium. Between 2001 and 2003, new stores were opened in Seoul, New York, Tokyo, Vienna, Paris, Amsterdam and London. In 2002, Salvatore Ferragamo and Ermenegildo Zegna created the co-brand ZeFer. In the same year China recognized Salvatore Ferragamo as best selling foreign brand. In June 2005, the fashion house signed a long-term contract with Porsche Design Group. Under the contract, the two companies will manufacture and sell shoes, bags and leather accessories. The brand found even more recognition, when Wanda Ferragamo was named Business Lady of 2002 (US) and Knight of the Big Cross in 2004 (Italy), among others
INTERVIEW WITH GIOVANNA FERRAGAMO
I had the possibility to meet the daughter of Salvatore Ferragamo, Giovanna Ferragamo, and I had a short talk with her on June 11, 2004, at the residence of the Italian Embassy in Sofia. The reason for her visit was the first Italian festival in Bulgaria and the fashion show of Italian fashion houses and designers at the National History Museum next to Boyana Residence. Some of the most eminent Italian labels, including Blumarine, Corneliani, Enrico Coveri, Erreuno, Iceberg, La Perla, Les Copains, Mariella Burani, Mila Schon, Missoni, Palzileri, Rocco Barocco, Salvatore Ferragamo showed their latest designs. Besides being a striking representative of the family fashion business, the daughter of Salvatore Ferragamo has also public and professional recognition at highest level in her native country – she is a vice president of the Italian Chamber of Fashion.
Lubomir Stoykov: What is the enormous success of the Italian fashion and of the works of Salvatore Ferragamo, in particular, due to?
Giovanna Ferragamo: Regarding Italian fashion, I can reduce my answer tо two words: its main elements are creativity and technology. I believe that these elements are the basis for the success of Italian fashion.
There are quite a lot of recent reports that haute couture is dying. Do you believe that it will disappear and if not, why?
I believe, indeed, that haute couture would not disappear. I think that it is very important! Haute couture is a free expression of creation without limitations, without borders imposed by fashion industry and by economy in general. Haute couture is in a deep crisis, as the world has changed and the situation is not the same as before. Putting on such clothing, which is unique and expensive, is becoming more and more an element of the past…
Salvatore Ferragamo represents a whole epoch in the world fashion. Which are the main professional rules and principles of your father, which you would never forget and follow up to this day?
My father passed away in 1960. Since then, from a company, which produced shoes mainly, we developed all remaining sectors, becoming a real fashion house, both for men and women. This was possible mainly due to two or three principles we have never betrayed. The most important one was to guarantee the production process and to control the production process. This, said otherwise, means that we have never granted any licenses. An only exception from this rule is eyewear, as this sector is highly specialized. We ourselves had taken care for everything else. And this was the reason to act slower compared to the other fashion houses. In return, we have won a very good reputation, which nowadays is repaying over and over again.
What is the philosophy of Salvatore Ferragamo today regarding elegance?
First of all, this means to underscore the individuality of a person. In our collections, we never focus on elements we want to be present in them, as our principle is what the Americans call „less is more”. All our collections, including prêt-a-porter, are contemplated in such a way that to be able to offer different solutions and never a single line only.
What will your collection to be shown tonight at the National History Museum near to Boyana Residence include?
This is a summer collection. Part of the clothes could be worn at more formal, evening events. A very feminine collection made of light fabrics. The colours are pale green, dark blue and pearl gray.
What is your personal style of clothing? What do you prefer to wear more often?
I always prefer clothes consisting of several elements and neutral tones. I have a great passion for white and black.
* * *
The saying that shoes make fashion sums up the life and work of genius shoemaker Salvatore Ferragamo. His contribution to fashion design lies in the fact that he drew the attention of designers and customers to this very important accessory and that he combined the perfect design with the perfect material. Starting with the anatomy of the human foot, considering the aesthetics of the times and implementing new materials and techniques, Ferragamo set exceptionally high standards in shoe design based on perfect construction, quality hand crafting, suitable materials and originality. All this makes Salvatore Ferragamo a brilliant example of uniqueness and professional consistency.
References:
Ермилова, Д. Ю. История домов моды, “Академия”. Москва, 2003; Христов, Емил. „Салваторе Ферагамо – история в обувки”, Rouge magazine, October 2006, pp. 94 – 95; „Чепиците на Монро чукнаха 80 години. Световноизвестната компания "Салваторе Ферагамо" вдига пищни купони по света”, Standart News daily, issue No. 5474 dated April 5, 2008; Encyclopedie. Editions - De grote Mode Nathan. Paris, France, 1989; Ewing, E. History of 20th Century Fashion. Third Edition. Revised and updated by Alice Mackrell. London, 1992; Fashion dictionary. Baldini Castoldi Dalai editore, Inc., New York, 2006; Martin, R. The St. James Fashion Encyclopedia: A Survey of Style from 1945 to the Present. Visible Ink Press. Detroit, 1997; O`Hara,G. The Encyclopaedia of Fashion. From 1840 to the 1980s. Thames and Hudson. London, 1986; Seeling, Ch. Fashion. The century of the designer 1900 – 1999. Konёmann, 2000, Cologne, etc.
Photos:
1. Salvatore Ferragamo with the shoe lasts of some of the most famous customers of his such as Sophia Loren, Greta Garbo, Ava Gardner, Audrey Hepburn, among others.
Photo: © Ewing,E.History of 20th Century Fashion. Third Edition. Revised and updated by Alice Mackrell. London, 1992.
2. Platform sandal, made by Ferragamo in 1938.
Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art
3. The invisible sandal of nylon fibre by Ferragamo, 1947.
Photo: © Steele, Valerie. Fashion, Italian Style. Yale University Press. New Haven and London. New York, 2003.
4. Salvatore Ferragamo together with one of his most famous clients – Sophia Loren in 1950s.
Photo: © Press Office Ferragamo
5. – 6. Shoes for Hollywood stars made by Salvatore Ferragamo with high heels with metal pins invented by him in the 1950s.
Photo: © Ewing, E. History of 20th Century Fashion. Third Edition. Revised and updated by Alice Mackrell. London, 1992.
7. Shoes Salvatore Ferragamo – 1993.
Photo: © Vogue (Deutsch), März 1993.
8. Leather handbag Salvatore Ferragamo – 1990s.
Photo: © Irving Solero / Steele, Valerie. Fashion, Italian Style. Yale University Press. New Haven and London. New York, 2003.
9. An elegant shoe Salvatore Ferragamo with laces in the back, collection Autumn-Winter 2002-2003.
Photo: © Steele, Valerie. Fashion, Italian Style. Yale University Press. New Haven and London. New York, 2003.
10. Collection of Salvatore Ferragamo – 2005.
Photo: © Elle (Deutsch), No. 102, April 2005.
11. Giovanna Ferragamo and Lubomir Stoikov – Sofia, June 11, 2004.
Photo: © Samuil Milev / Personal archive of Lubomir Stoikov.
12. – 13. Collection of Christina Ortiz for Salvatore Ferragamo, spring-summer 2009.
Photo: © Marcio Madeira/ www.vogue.com
Translator: Reny Ivanova
Read: 16319 times © Fashion Lifestyle Magazine, issue 23, June 2009
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